Astrid & I were first to dive in and swim ashore while the others were still horizontal. Walking through the olive trees we passed a single hammock , occupied by Adam and Eve from yesterday. How they managed the night arched and squashed together (sounds wild) in one hammock beats me. We found a short coastal path which required exploration and swam back to the boat from a homemade jetty through crystal clear water. 
This was a really nice spot, one to remember if we ever do the area again. After brekkie got the sails up hoping for more action than we actually got.  After a few hours did a fly-by through Stafilos, an attractive bay on the south-East corner of Skopelos. Not the night spot we were looking for and quite busy, but an attractive and busy beach surrounded by pine clad slopes and some houses.

Reached our destination at the small harbour of Agnondas on Skopelos west coast. Really pretty with a few restaurants at the waters edge, a nice small beach and one little shop. Wooded hillsides ran right down to the beach with very large trees only metres from the waters edge; possibly the greenest surroundings we have seen so far; the Mama Mia setting!

Astrid Charlie & I headed off to the beach, whilst the others did their thing. Edsel chilled on the boat, entertained by the new boat arrivals which always provide varied amusement or drama. Whist swimming, Charlie identified a group of South Africans, Capetonians which made me very happy.

When at the little supermarket we realised that good Greek wine can be inexpensive, 3 or 4 Euros per bottle, sometimes less. Less than half of UK prices. The next surprise was back at the boat where the neighbouring family turned out to be from Blewbury, and Charlie knew them from the European school. On another two boats were their friends with more European School kids so it ended up very sociable.

The beach Capetonians came past on their sunset stroll and were dragged aboard for sundowners. It was a really enjoyable meeting Patrick & Georgina from Marina Da Gama and ex-Zimbos Gavin & Gill from Table View. It did not end there, for both had worked for CDM in Oranjemund and we shared many old business connections. We were perhaps a tad rowdier than normal, with the socialising extending both on and off the quayside.

A table was booked at the waterside restaurant –“not before 9:00pm” we were told, because that is when the wasps go to sleep. Teaming up with the other Euro-School families with two tables at the waters edge (feet literarily in the sand/stones). The kids grouped together and numbered something like 14, nearly more than us. Their party was to continue until well after midnight with one or two having experimented too enthusiastically with the wine, and the girls went topless swimming.

A thoroughly enjoyable day and our last “free” night before having to return the boat to Skiathos base by Friday 18:00. Have loved the past two weeks and the Greek experience, which like last year, confirms it once again as our favourite destination (RSA excluded of course!)

Everyone really liked this remote bay on Skantzoura, with its perfect sandy beach and crystal clear water. It seems that only the south facing beaches are free from debri, which makes sense since the prevailing wind is usually from North. Only once the shore lines had been brought in and the anchor was being hauled was it suggested that we stay another night. Too late, we headed out with sails up immediately in the direction of Peristera Island. After an unsatisfactory anchor attempt at a favoured west coast lunch spot, we moved down to a south facing bay Ormos Peristeri with sandy bottom, wooded hillsides and clear water. First attempt at laying a shore line was not ideal due to another yacht being in the way. Later the beach anchor was relocated, not without difficulty as there were strong northerly gusts. It was only later when the day boats had left could we finally set two opposing shorelines which prepared us for any wind condition. Astrid excelled as the shoreline swimmer, now an expert at tying up to nearest solid rocks despite the physical hardship endured (scratches, cuts and abrasions).

An Adam and Eve couple appeared to be living ashore under the olive trees, and he excited the girls each time he swam naked across the bay with his all over tan and Jesus hairstyle. Unfortunately Eve did not equally oblige.

It was a leisurely afternoon, each doing their own thing until Mother Nature presented us with another perfect pink sunset. Later as night came on and a small moon hung on the horizon, the Dominicon Republic rum appeared along with Edsel’s 16 year old Lagavulin Scotch whiskey. The women got their second wind and chatted to all hours.       I, being a pure soul, headed to bed.

The ferry woke me really early when it started its engines and by 6:30 I was up and about, getting the blog up to date and preparing for departure. Christian & I had early morning coffee and muesli bar at the bakery again. Could be habit forming. Had arranged to get the vehicles back early and by 8:30 we were in Hora. The super-energetic owner of the rental business drove us back to Linaria, whilst calling, hooting and waving to everyone en route. Clearly a local. Commenting on the fuel situation, he told us that for 3-4 weeks recently when Greece was in crisis mode negotiating another bailout, nearly all tourism stopped to the islands, which put a huge strain on the locals and resulted in some businesses closing.

Back at the boat we made a super efficient departure while finishing breakfast. Once out of the bay we picked up a good wind, albeit “on the nose” and decided to tack 30 miles to the stop-over island of Skantzoura (the God-forsaken one). Kept that up all morning but finally as the wind eased we resorted to motor as we were getting hungry and there was no chance to prepare food while heeling and bashing through swells.

This was going to be a quick lunch stop so we opted for a more exposed south facing bay on the island. That was our best surprise yet. Far from being the awful island that I imagined, from the other side at least, it had incredibly clear water with a sandy bottom and a clean white sandy bay at the head. We were all ecstatic and decided to stay the afternoon and night.

At one point we got worried when three boats arrived together and anchored very near to us, full of young Greeks which had potential to be a huge party. Turned out fine and they made good neighbours. Meanwhile we all went ashore for sundowners on the beach (well what else do you do to celebrate the passing of another fine day?).

Despite the quiet perfect night, there was a gentle swell which seems to make most of us, teenagers excepted, extremely sleepy so it was not long after supper that we hit the sack, but not before finishing the remaining Uzo. Seemed a pity to waste it.

Lying in bed looking up through the hatch to stars and the motion of a gentle swell did it for me.

Christian & I had planned to get up early (7:30) so that we could have a coffee at the bakery then head to town to fetch the second car. We did not know that the ferry (which had been in port all night) would depart at 08:00, which meant that bedlam prevailed for an hour and half before that with cars and trucks loading, police whistles and pedestrians boarding. Then suddenly it was all over. Quiet.

Picked up the second car in Hora fine, but I had to fuel the Suziki. Two garages had run out of fuel. It turned out that there are only three garages on the island and only one has fuel. The others have no money to pay for it. Eventually made it back and collected the family, armed with island tourist info – a short list!

First stop an ancient quarry on the coast. The porous and abrasive stone may have been used as insulating building blocks. Stone had been removed right down to water level. One large section of stone remained, into which a little two roomed church had been hollowed out. Drove to the northern barren section of the island where an a Neolithic settlement was being excavated at Palamari Bay. Was occupied 4000 to 5000 years ago. The excavation work which was only half completed had been funded by EU so was well presented. It had been a well fortified settlement with bastions on the land side, and open to the sea on the others to was hot as hell and we were thirsty. The toilets were closed because of lack of water, and the beach stony without any shade so we moved to the west of the island which was completely different. Green with bush and small pines, small valleys and narrow roads.

At Artsitsa was a well established Taverna and beach with all the usual loungers, umbrellas, food and drink. Was busy though, so it took a while to find enough chairs for everyone. Water clear, swimming great and a good place to hang out for some hours, so we did.

Some crisis at HP meant that Astrid had to get access to her computer and work again. Only solution was for me to drive her to our harbour and return – a hour and half trip. This turned out to be not bad for me because the journey along the west coast was exceptionally beautiful. A narrow winding road flanked with soft green pines which presumably had all grown after the forest fire of 2007. They actually encroached the road making it even narrower. The small settlement at Agios Fokas was beautiful, with a sheltered blue bay and small islet. More bays and beaches on the way back, but they will have to remain for another day.

I enjoyed the return journey just a much, stopping to take pictures and ready for a swim by the time I rejoined the others. Discovered that not only do Amstel make 0% beer but also 2% Radler (shandy). All good stuff when you are thirsty.

When the time came to leave I convinced the others to stop by at Fokas for sundowners. Great idea for the view from the cliff top was stunning and we looked over the remains of an old loading pier and well preserved stone columns which once supported a railway from the mine. The owner explained that iron ore had been quarried in the hills and exported from here to Krupp of Germany from ~1880 until the start of WW1 after which it never resumed. The tunnel goes some 2kms into the hillside. Current owner bought the land in 1920. Large ships were able to anchor on the one side, where depth dropped from rock shallows to 40 metres.

Back to Linaria  port and our boat, where I found Astrid looking for a sundowner.  Finally decided to try the local restaurant some 25 metres from the boat. When she asked for a G&T the helpful waiter nipped down the road to his sister’s pub and came wandering back down the street with the drink and an IOU slip!  The girls needed another swim and joined some local boys leaping off the end of the pier until a friendly police ant asked them to clear the area for a ferry arrival.   Once again the town leapt to life for an hour or so.  Ferry parked up for the night – we knew what that meant.   An early awakening.  

Pleasant dinner at the restaurant, although we had too many really nice starters which were not as tasty as the main courses, so some dissatisfaction there.  Afterwards Astrid and I climbed to the Illuminated church on the hill, slipped in through the closed gate and soaked up the atmosphere. In a couple of days we have come to really like this island, it’s simplicity and the friendliness of the locals.  Would love to see it in May at start of season and with all the spring flowers, which now are brown scratchy relics on the barren landscape.

The teenagers negotiated a 2:00 return, fortunately Christian volunteered to take the night watch and see them aboard safely.    Really nice day, nice place, nice memories. 

The church bells chimed out at some ungodly hour like 6:30 am so no one slept too late. Also could not swim in the harbour of course so the plan was to head to the beach for the day. Unfortunately yesterday’s attempts at hiring cars, quad bikes or anything else proved fruitless so we took the bus to town, since taxis were getting expensive. Astrid Charlie & I climbed out in Hora to find a vehicle while the rest continued to the beach at Melos bay.

We had to wait a while until a back street bike company called Expo Vagios opened at 13:00. The heat was intense and while waiting we resorted to iced coffees to rebuild our wilted spirits. Astrid felt sorry for a black street vendor selling a variety of odds and ends, just like they do in Cape Town. Turned out he was from Zimbabwe so he scored double there. His view on Africa was: “ it’s a great country but just has bad leaders”. Spot on.

After concluding our car hire, island style with instant paperwork and a cash payment, we headed out. I think we got the wife’s car because 20 minutes later she phoned to say she had left both her mobile phones in the car!

Joining the others on Molos beach was a most relaxing afternoon. With sun umbrellas and loungers provided (normal around the Med, just support the local restaurant or bar) I was able to read, doze swim and totally relax. Wonderful afternoon. Astrid however felt pressured to sort out a work problem so she and the teenagers headed back to the boat for a couple of hours. The rest of us migrated to the “Windmill” restaurant for sundowners overlooking a beautiful small boat harbour.

Then came the call – our boat (10 kms away at Linaria) had to be re-located as the ferry was arriving at 10:pm. How they never knew this yesterday when we paid for our 3 night berth, we can only surmise. That meant when Astrid and the girls arrived at the restaurant for dinner, I had to take the (only) vehicle and drive back again to sort it out. Another 1 hour round trip. Between Charlie and I we had the boat relocated and tied up stern-to with power connected all the space of about 10 minutes. Impressive.

Nice meal, although Greek salad and Tzatziki were starting to get a bit monotonous. Much wine got consumed though, and fortunately Christian had been off alcohol all year so he had to make the two round trips and ferry everyone back to the boat. We got tho know that route quite well! The good news was that our friendly car hire man was able to provide another small Citroen the next morning, maybe his neighbours wife’s car?

Yet another late night on deck. Life never stops around here, and the teenagers wanted to hang about the harbour until all hours. They were most upset with me when I got them back by 1:30 am. It’s not that kind of harbour though. The harbour, village, shops and restaurants are all integrated. Life erupts once or twice a day for about 30 minutes when the ferry arrives, then it’s back to the locals and tourists.

Exactly at 8:00 am we departed with the prospect of an 8 hour crossing ahead. The wind was weak and we alternated between sailing and the motor. Most slept on and left Edsel & I to handle the boat. We planned a “breakfast” stop at Skantzoura which was visible on the horizon and which lay less than halfway to our destination of Skyros Island. It is a barren god-forsaken place whose probable only redeeming feature is some kind of protection from the Meltemi gales on occasion. Did not hang around too long for it was still around 30 miles to Skiros, which was another barely visible smudge on the horizon. Everyone found their own way to pass the time, and pass it eventually did. The final approach to Skiros was between some islets which was narrow and shallow. The pilotage book assured me that it was possible to go that way, but we kept a good lookout just in case. On arrival at Skiros a very friendly harbourmaster explained the facilities, which were remarkably organised for a small port. Even had a rack of books for loan/exchange and shopping trolleys on the quayside. This was also the first time so far that we could use lazy-lines instead of our anchor, which made life easy.

After dumping a ton of rubbish and sorting ourselves out with showers etc we took taxis to Molos, a pretty beach side village some 10 kms away for our first dinner out in ages. Molos is dominated by the capital town of Hora on the hillside above, which in turn was dominated by a huge lump of rock with the remnants of a castle on top. The entire town consists of typically square white buildings, which did not have as much blue contrasting paintwork as seen elsewhere. It was a must-see of course so after dinner we ambled up the steep stony walkway to explore. Very festive place with live music and many busy bars and restaurants, despite the narrow streets and walkways. It appeared that, as Greece had just received another 13 billion bailout from Europe, there was something to celebrate! The streets in the old town were narrow and cobbled, flanked with interlinked small houses. Many folk sat on their small street side patios and watched the world go by. While our women shopped, the teenagers explored the heaving end of town which was dominated by numerous clubs spreading all over the streets and attempting to outdo each other with their music. Mainly Greek tourists with not many other Europeans in evidence. We men settled at a music bar on the winding main walkway, fascinated by the passing parade until shortly before midnight when we all gathered together to celebrate Dani’s birthday. Then came the surprise……… Christiaan had organised a comfy corner on the rooftop terrace complete with sofas and wine at the ready. We expected a short speech to follow but what bowled us over was when he dropped onto one knee and formally proposed to Dani (they have been together for 20 years). Much elation and not a dry eye in sight. Their daughter Ariana was over the moon. All this under the atmospheric setting of the illuminated hilltop and castle above us.

Finally we left the hectic early morning scene where no one sleeps it seems and took taxis back to Linaria. Everyone was awake there too, despite the early hour so we took up our late night positions in the cockpit and managed yet another round of Uzo. At this point we all collapsed into bed. A noisy place to spend the night but after the tranquility of recent days we could handle anything.

Knowing that we had a fair distance to cover, we made a relatively early departure north, with a head wind which had been characteristic every day so far. The impressively massive bulk of Gioura loomed before us, about 6 miles long and some 500 metres high with huge cliffs dropping into the sea. Totally uninhabited and unapproachable. The search for the Monk Seals was on. Our destination was Psatoura, the northernmost and most remote Sporades island. From a distance it looks like a flat pancake with a solitary lighthouse. The surrounding seas can throw up huge waves in bad weather due to big changes in depth and a noticeable current which is unusual around here. We were grateful for light winds on this occasion as the island offered no protection at all and we needed a lunch stop! The pilotage books also warned of numerous unmarked rocks and inferred that the charts were not correct in places.

Circumnavigated the entire island which was impressive in its barrenness. Eased in very slowly on the southern side to the only shallow water and beach. Two pairs of eyes on the foredeck watched for stray rocks.

Unfortunately no sign of the seals. A few other boats around which surprised me because this really is far and no civilisation this side of the horizon in any direction. After lunch we finally changed direction to south and skirted down the eastern side of Gioura. Not the place to be when the Meltemi blows (that is the summer gale force wind that makes everyone’s life a misery on occasions). Further south we crossed over again to Psatoura Island, this time the east coast to Monastry Cove where the only island inhabitants, a few monks, are busy restoring an old Monastry, situated high on a cliff top. Went ashore and climbed the many steps set into the cliff, but when on top Astrid was not partial to the many wasps and horseflies which hang around whenever goats are present, so we went back down. Christian & Simonde however went into the Monastry and were offered refreshments including home made schnapps. Sorry I missed that!

Could have happily spent the night here but it is not permitted and the bay has a rocky bottom which does not hold an anchor well.

Finally returned to Kira Panayia hoping to find our “special spot” but that was taken (damn) so found something else that was quiet and secluded instead. By now the provisions were running low so all the leftovers emerged for dinner and most indulged in fresh water showers which was great after so much sun and salt. It had been a very long day, we are now ready to for a port again.  Early start planned for tomorrow as we make the long crossing to Skyros Island in the east, some 45 miles away.

A beautifully clear and still morning, water like glass again and even clearer. Paddled ashore to take some photos and see if it was possible to go walkabout, but the bushes are too thick and prickly for that. The screech of Cicado beetles takes over here when it gets hot, continuing all day until nightfall when it is like a light switch going off and peace reigns once more.

Even the non-sailors were getting a bit desperate for some sailing wind, so when a breeze appeared we had the sails up in no time and headed up the channel between Peristera and Alonnisis. That became the pattern of the day as the wind strengthened and then eased off, frequently resorting to motor when the wind eased.  The wind was from North which is where we were heading, so we had to find a balance between tacking and actually getting to the next destination in reasonable time.

With the aforementioned islands behind us and in wide open sea, we spotted a number of Dolphins. They provided great entertainment leaping out of the water, but the best was when a huge fella swam alongside our boat, some three metres away and seemed to be enjoying racing us. This area is a marine sanctuary where everything is protected, particularly the Monk Seal, which we have not seen yet. Panayia Island loomed before us, uninhabited except for a monastery on the eastern side. Despite its size there are only two bays for anchoring, north and south.  Not the place to be caught in a storm. We tucked into a corner of  the southern Kira Panayia bay. Got quite excited about moving the boat in closer to the tiny inlet with a sandy bottom and pure white beach, but had already planned to go north so we lunched and swam ashore instead. Astrid got peed off when another small yacht arrived and tucked into “our” spot.

Moving on, we headed north some 8 miles to the top of the island, to the large enclosed “lagoon” of Planitis. The pilot book warned us of the very narrow entrance which can get huge waves when the wind is up because the depth drops from 130 metres to 6 metres over a short distance. Nonetheless we caught it on a good day and emerged from the entry channel into a huge enclosed bay of calm water.
 

Not the crystal clear water we had seen before, understandably as the currents do not get here. Our anchorage was perfect and after the usual jumping around some of us went ashore for sundowners on the hilltop. Turned out to be quite a hike as the rocks are sharp, the bushes prickly and even the goat paths were of no help. It was worth the effort and presented a real panorama in every sense of the word. Only problem was that no sundowners came out as not everyone managed the hike so easily and we ended up spread all over the hillside instead.

It was a perfect, peaceful pasta evening although initially we had concerns that a large motor yacht (why use that word – it’s a diesel guzzler) in the distance might keep its generator on all night but that too died with the Cicado beetles and all we were left with was a smattering of anchor lights. How it should be.

We are really efficient at breakfast these days, usually beating the wasps to it. It does however mean that we seem to eat below instead of on deck, but that is just convenient. Anyway we made a sharp departure from our clear water spot and headed back down to Patiteri for shopping et al. Amazing how that can excite the girls. The harbour was full so we anchored, motored ashore and settled in one of the many Tavernas for refreshments because it was steamy hot. These kind of decisions are usually made based on who offers free WiFi. Next door was an environmental centre promoting awareness of the diminishing monk seals which live around the Northern Sporades islands (a marine sanctuary). Meanwhile, believe it or not, Astrid had stayed on board to catch up with work matters – not ideal but the wheels of commerce need oiling occasionally. I motored back to our boat to drag her off and we then decided to abandon the anchorage and practice our joint skills at mooring, which was achieved impressively quickly alongside the town jetty.

Meanwhile the teenagers had exploited the free WiFi and communicated everything to everyone while the adults explored the waterfront which was quaint and busy as one might expect. In order to connect to quayside electricity and water I unsuccessfully walked around half the town, as directed by a friendly policeman , to no avail. Turns out you must talk to the travel agent(?). In the process I noticed that all the lamp posts has been placed in the middle of the pavements, which coupled with odd tables, chairs and flowerpots meant one had to walk in the road half the time. The police all have referee type whistles which are blown loudly and aggressively at any person or car which needs sorting out. Like naughty children!

With everyone off shopping for provisions and more, Astrid & I returned to the boat to sort out the water tanks and charge her work(!!!) computer, whilst being nagged by the harbour police to please move on soonest, as we were not supposed to be in that spot. “Only another 10 minutes “ turned out to be about 1 ½ hours in the end.

Finally, landed with all kinds of goodies, we headed north up the coast to the smal coastal village of Steni Vala, by which time we were all desperate for a swim.
It was a tiny harbour with no space for us, so Astrid & Charlie went ashore to find the Monk Seal Rehabilitation Centre which had been on our must-see radar.  Turned out this no longer existed although the girls did not waste the opportunity to check all the shops instead. 

The afternoon was getting late and we needed to find a comfortable night spot. Although there was little wind I prefer not to be woken with problems in the early hours. So we crossed to the island of Peristera and tucked ourselves into a quiet southern corner of Vasiliko Bay next to an abandoned boat shed. Lots of abandoned wood and metal too but the water was in fact the cleanest we have seen so far. Crystal clear and another invitation to snorkel. The underwater scenery here is largely similar and not especially colourful, like most of the Med, but always smaller fish and shells abound. Now we are really getting away from it all, for the northern Sporades islands are sparsely populated, if at all, and this was no exception. We have also finally lost all phone communications (which will remain so for some days).

Supper was high class tonight with fresh fish and tasty sauces. Better than a restaurant!

As night fell the girls spotted a dolphin or seal near our bows which was special. We all made ourselves comfortable on the foredeck to watch for shooting stars. The water was like glass, and I seem to have nodded off every time the cry went up of a burning meteorite. The atmosphere was incredible.

I could get used to this.  Early morning swim next to our ruins again, leisurely breakfast and a quiet harbour.  We all eased into the day in various ways with everyone very relaxed, all teenagers in a good mood (wow).   The biggest challenge was getting the pontoon water and electricity to work.  Technology does not seem to be a Greek strongpoint.    Had a visit from Craig who had been sorting out a mechanical problem on his boat.

After replenishing our water and washing down the boat – always great to get a fresh start – I decided to compete with the gigantic ferry and leave simultaneously.  Greek ferries come in all shapes and sizes, but the high speed catamarans are extremely impressive, can turn on a tickey and can get up to something like 40 knots speed.

No wind – sea like glass today – so we motored around the top of Skopolos Island and down the east coast, pulling in next to a small headland with a church on top – spectacular location and used for the wedding in Mama Mia so plenty of tourists around now. Went ashore and climbed the extremely steep steps to the church – wow. Very beautiful setting but church services could only have attracted the very fittest parishioners which would explain why it is not big inside!

After a lunch, swimming and snorkelling we dragged the teenagers back on board and headed down the coast past Skopolos town which did not interest us (too busy) en route to the island of Alonnisos.