With great dedication to their task, Christian and Astrid got up extra early to decorate the boat with birthday banners and flags.  For the rest of us it was another late start, but the best part of anchoring in quiet bays is being able to get up and dive off the back of the boat before even being properly awake.   Situated on the other side of our bay was Michael Carroll’s house – he wrote “Gates of the Wind” which I believe is a must-read especially for the descriptions of Skopolos and this area of Parormos before they became popular destinations.

My task was to take the dingy to the village down the coast for fresh bread and more bottled water.  We get through huge quantities of drinking water. – must he healthy!  After breakfast on deck with the ever-present wasps, Edsel & I nipped over to the neighbouring boat for a chat with Craig & Carol who regularly spend their summer months cruising the Med before returning to Cape Town.  Below: Edsel playing at being a Greek God while Christian at the helm. 

  Motored up the coast to Loutraki, arriving around midday to ensure that we found a spot on the small jetty, part of the advance birthday party planning!   Although the harbour was very clean, we swam futher down the coast next to what was described as “Roman Bath ruins”. It was an archeological site 1700 years old with not much left to fire the imagination.  I opted to explore the hillside above and ended up doing an 8 km hike which encompassed the hilltop village of Glossa.  Views across to Skiathos, mainland and other islands were outstanding.  Back at the boat, party preparations were in full swing – everyone showered and dressed for a summer night out.    

  
It was a 40 minute hike up the hill to Glossa or a taxi ride. Taxi won.   Arrived at Agnanti restaurant which was the big birthday surprise for Simone.  Best table on a top terrace with views to die for and two local musicians all ensured this was a night to remember. Even our super friendly waitress was German.   Meryl Streep didn’t have it better! 

 Only got back to the boat after midnight because the girls just had to do some late night shopping (do they never close around here?).   I was ready to drop, so when a laptop appeared and Mama Mia leapt to life  I sneaked off to bed.   There are limits you know……….. 

After the steamy preparations on Saturday were finally completed, exacerbated by lack of sleep, we sailed off to Koukounaries Bay on the south of Skiathos island.   Arrived around sunset and dropped anchor without too much fuss.  Fantastic cook-up followed and as is customary the wine, whisky and beer all came out.  So despite an immense lack of sleep we ended up with another very late and exuberant night.   So far so good.  I had not however banked on the strong gusts that were to hit us in the early hours of Sunday morning. Although we were well anchored, our swinging motion caused the anchor chain to drag over the rocky sea bottom with alarming sounds – which got me up at least three times during the night until I was convinced we were actually going nowhere and were totally secure. 

  
 Breakfast on deck was a challenging event, as the wasps wanted what we were eating which resulted in both Astrid and Dani being stung.   Later headed out on a good wind for an exhilarating 7+ knot sail across to Panormou Bay on the island of Skopolos (of Mama Mia fame).    Nice protected anchorage but in addition to the anchor we still relied on another two shore lines to stop us swinging into our neighbour.

  Took the dingy ashore to a busy taverna in the next bay  for sundowners and a stunning sunset.  Very special!    

 On our return we found that not only did the neighbouring boat have a South African flag, but they were from Cape Town, AND Craig Middleton went to Rondebosch Boys High School a few years after me.  How’s that? 
 
Unfortunately the lack of sleep on previous days did not damp everyone’s spirits, so once again it was a laaaate and noisy night.   The main reason was that it was Simones birthday at midnight so presents came out along with the champagne.  Beautiful setting to turn 50.

Opted for spending our Friday night in airports rather than sleeping.  So when we arrived at Athens 2:00am we were not surprised to see our friends sleeping on the airport floor after a long wait.  

Could be in Africa!  
An early bird flight to the island of Skiathos followed by a high speed taxi ride got us to the Meltemi cafe on the waterfront before it was even open. The taxis here are fully adaptable and fitted with stretch straps as standard it seems 

 Never mind, the cafes all leave their comfy furniture out (it never rains here) so some of us grabbed the opportunity for some shut-eye before sunrise. When the staff finally arrived at 7:00am we decided to start as we meant to continue and ordered a jug of wine with breakfast (how bad is that!).  

 With most of the day to kill before collecting the boat, we wandered off in search of a beach. Quaint paved roads between typical white and blue houses.  Found the perfect beach with sun loungers which we saw as sleepers, and spent a delightful day dozing, swimming and getting into the Greek way of life. 

    
  Can’t beat cold beer in an iced glass! 
Finally the tedious part loomed. Boat hand-over, shopping and loading up. All in 35 degrees ……..  The holiday begins.