I could get used to this.  Early morning swim next to our ruins again, leisurely breakfast and a quiet harbour.  We all eased into the day in various ways with everyone very relaxed, all teenagers in a good mood (wow).   The biggest challenge was getting the pontoon water and electricity to work.  Technology does not seem to be a Greek strongpoint.    Had a visit from Craig who had been sorting out a mechanical problem on his boat.

After replenishing our water and washing down the boat – always great to get a fresh start – I decided to compete with the gigantic ferry and leave simultaneously.  Greek ferries come in all shapes and sizes, but the high speed catamarans are extremely impressive, can turn on a tickey and can get up to something like 40 knots speed.

No wind – sea like glass today – so we motored around the top of Skopolos Island and down the east coast, pulling in next to a small headland with a church on top – spectacular location and used for the wedding in Mama Mia so plenty of tourists around now. Went ashore and climbed the extremely steep steps to the church – wow. Very beautiful setting but church services could only have attracted the very fittest parishioners which would explain why it is not big inside!

After a lunch, swimming and snorkelling we dragged the teenagers back on board and headed down the coast past Skopolos town which did not interest us (too busy) en route to the island of Alonnisos.

With great dedication to their task, Christian and Astrid got up extra early to decorate the boat with birthday banners and flags.  For the rest of us it was another late start, but the best part of anchoring in quiet bays is being able to get up and dive off the back of the boat before even being properly awake.   Situated on the other side of our bay was Michael Carroll’s house – he wrote “Gates of the Wind” which I believe is a must-read especially for the descriptions of Skopolos and this area of Parormos before they became popular destinations.

My task was to take the dingy to the village down the coast for fresh bread and more bottled water.  We get through huge quantities of drinking water. – must he healthy!  After breakfast on deck with the ever-present wasps, Edsel & I nipped over to the neighbouring boat for a chat with Craig & Carol who regularly spend their summer months cruising the Med before returning to Cape Town.  Below: Edsel playing at being a Greek God while Christian at the helm. 

  Motored up the coast to Loutraki, arriving around midday to ensure that we found a spot on the small jetty, part of the advance birthday party planning!   Although the harbour was very clean, we swam futher down the coast next to what was described as “Roman Bath ruins”. It was an archeological site 1700 years old with not much left to fire the imagination.  I opted to explore the hillside above and ended up doing an 8 km hike which encompassed the hilltop village of Glossa.  Views across to Skiathos, mainland and other islands were outstanding.  Back at the boat, party preparations were in full swing – everyone showered and dressed for a summer night out.    

  
It was a 40 minute hike up the hill to Glossa or a taxi ride. Taxi won.   Arrived at Agnanti restaurant which was the big birthday surprise for Simone.  Best table on a top terrace with views to die for and two local musicians all ensured this was a night to remember. Even our super friendly waitress was German.   Meryl Streep didn’t have it better! 

 Only got back to the boat after midnight because the girls just had to do some late night shopping (do they never close around here?).   I was ready to drop, so when a laptop appeared and Mama Mia leapt to life  I sneaked off to bed.   There are limits you know………..