Knowing that we had a fair distance to cover, we made a relatively early departure north, with a head wind which had been characteristic every day so far. The impressively massive bulk of Gioura loomed before us, about 6 miles long and some 500 metres high with huge cliffs dropping into the sea. Totally uninhabited and unapproachable. The search for the Monk Seals was on. Our destination was Psatoura, the northernmost and most remote Sporades island. From a distance it looks like a flat pancake with a solitary lighthouse. The surrounding seas can throw up huge waves in bad weather due to big changes in depth and a noticeable current which is unusual around here. We were grateful for light winds on this occasion as the island offered no protection at all and we needed a lunch stop! The pilotage books also warned of numerous unmarked rocks and inferred that the charts were not correct in places.
Circumnavigated the entire island which was impressive in its barrenness. Eased in very slowly on the southern side to the only shallow water and beach. Two pairs of eyes on the foredeck watched for stray rocks.
Unfortunately no sign of the seals. A few other boats around which surprised me because this really is far and no civilisation this side of the horizon in any direction. After lunch we finally changed direction to south and skirted down the eastern side of Gioura. Not the place to be when the Meltemi blows (that is the summer gale force wind that makes everyone’s life a misery on occasions). Further south we crossed over again to Psatoura Island, this time the east coast to Monastry Cove where the only island inhabitants, a few monks, are busy restoring an old Monastry, situated high on a cliff top. Went ashore and climbed the many steps set into the cliff, but when on top Astrid was not partial to the many wasps and horseflies which hang around whenever goats are present, so we went back down. Christian & Simonde however went into the Monastry and were offered refreshments including home made schnapps. Sorry I missed that!
Could have happily spent the night here but it is not permitted and the bay has a rocky bottom which does not hold an anchor well.
Finally returned to Kira Panayia hoping to find our “special spot” but that was taken (damn) so found something else that was quiet and secluded instead. By now the provisions were running low so all the leftovers emerged for dinner and most indulged in fresh water showers which was great after so much sun and salt. It had been a very long day, we are now ready to for a port again. Early start planned for tomorrow as we make the long crossing to Skyros Island in the east, some 45 miles away.