Knowing that we had a fair distance to cover, we made a relatively early departure north, with a head wind which had been characteristic every day so far. The impressively massive bulk of Gioura loomed before us, about 6 miles long and some 500 metres high with huge cliffs dropping into the sea. Totally uninhabited and unapproachable. The search for the Monk Seals was on. Our destination was Psatoura, the northernmost and most remote Sporades island. From a distance it looks like a flat pancake with a solitary lighthouse. The surrounding seas can throw up huge waves in bad weather due to big changes in depth and a noticeable current which is unusual around here. We were grateful for light winds on this occasion as the island offered no protection at all and we needed a lunch stop! The pilotage books also warned of numerous unmarked rocks and inferred that the charts were not correct in places.

Circumnavigated the entire island which was impressive in its barrenness. Eased in very slowly on the southern side to the only shallow water and beach. Two pairs of eyes on the foredeck watched for stray rocks.

Unfortunately no sign of the seals. A few other boats around which surprised me because this really is far and no civilisation this side of the horizon in any direction. After lunch we finally changed direction to south and skirted down the eastern side of Gioura. Not the place to be when the Meltemi blows (that is the summer gale force wind that makes everyone’s life a misery on occasions). Further south we crossed over again to Psatoura Island, this time the east coast to Monastry Cove where the only island inhabitants, a few monks, are busy restoring an old Monastry, situated high on a cliff top. Went ashore and climbed the many steps set into the cliff, but when on top Astrid was not partial to the many wasps and horseflies which hang around whenever goats are present, so we went back down. Christian & Simonde however went into the Monastry and were offered refreshments including home made schnapps. Sorry I missed that!

Could have happily spent the night here but it is not permitted and the bay has a rocky bottom which does not hold an anchor well.

Finally returned to Kira Panayia hoping to find our “special spot” but that was taken (damn) so found something else that was quiet and secluded instead. By now the provisions were running low so all the leftovers emerged for dinner and most indulged in fresh water showers which was great after so much sun and salt. It had been a very long day, we are now ready to for a port again.  Early start planned for tomorrow as we make the long crossing to Skyros Island in the east, some 45 miles away.

A beautifully clear and still morning, water like glass again and even clearer. Paddled ashore to take some photos and see if it was possible to go walkabout, but the bushes are too thick and prickly for that. The screech of Cicado beetles takes over here when it gets hot, continuing all day until nightfall when it is like a light switch going off and peace reigns once more.

Even the non-sailors were getting a bit desperate for some sailing wind, so when a breeze appeared we had the sails up in no time and headed up the channel between Peristera and Alonnisis. That became the pattern of the day as the wind strengthened and then eased off, frequently resorting to motor when the wind eased.  The wind was from North which is where we were heading, so we had to find a balance between tacking and actually getting to the next destination in reasonable time.

With the aforementioned islands behind us and in wide open sea, we spotted a number of Dolphins. They provided great entertainment leaping out of the water, but the best was when a huge fella swam alongside our boat, some three metres away and seemed to be enjoying racing us. This area is a marine sanctuary where everything is protected, particularly the Monk Seal, which we have not seen yet. Panayia Island loomed before us, uninhabited except for a monastery on the eastern side. Despite its size there are only two bays for anchoring, north and south.  Not the place to be caught in a storm. We tucked into a corner of  the southern Kira Panayia bay. Got quite excited about moving the boat in closer to the tiny inlet with a sandy bottom and pure white beach, but had already planned to go north so we lunched and swam ashore instead. Astrid got peed off when another small yacht arrived and tucked into “our” spot.

Moving on, we headed north some 8 miles to the top of the island, to the large enclosed “lagoon” of Planitis. The pilot book warned us of the very narrow entrance which can get huge waves when the wind is up because the depth drops from 130 metres to 6 metres over a short distance. Nonetheless we caught it on a good day and emerged from the entry channel into a huge enclosed bay of calm water.
 

Not the crystal clear water we had seen before, understandably as the currents do not get here. Our anchorage was perfect and after the usual jumping around some of us went ashore for sundowners on the hilltop. Turned out to be quite a hike as the rocks are sharp, the bushes prickly and even the goat paths were of no help. It was worth the effort and presented a real panorama in every sense of the word. Only problem was that no sundowners came out as not everyone managed the hike so easily and we ended up spread all over the hillside instead.

It was a perfect, peaceful pasta evening although initially we had concerns that a large motor yacht (why use that word – it’s a diesel guzzler) in the distance might keep its generator on all night but that too died with the Cicado beetles and all we were left with was a smattering of anchor lights. How it should be.

We are really efficient at breakfast these days, usually beating the wasps to it. It does however mean that we seem to eat below instead of on deck, but that is just convenient. Anyway we made a sharp departure from our clear water spot and headed back down to Patiteri for shopping et al. Amazing how that can excite the girls. The harbour was full so we anchored, motored ashore and settled in one of the many Tavernas for refreshments because it was steamy hot. These kind of decisions are usually made based on who offers free WiFi. Next door was an environmental centre promoting awareness of the diminishing monk seals which live around the Northern Sporades islands (a marine sanctuary). Meanwhile, believe it or not, Astrid had stayed on board to catch up with work matters – not ideal but the wheels of commerce need oiling occasionally. I motored back to our boat to drag her off and we then decided to abandon the anchorage and practice our joint skills at mooring, which was achieved impressively quickly alongside the town jetty.

Meanwhile the teenagers had exploited the free WiFi and communicated everything to everyone while the adults explored the waterfront which was quaint and busy as one might expect. In order to connect to quayside electricity and water I unsuccessfully walked around half the town, as directed by a friendly policeman , to no avail. Turns out you must talk to the travel agent(?). In the process I noticed that all the lamp posts has been placed in the middle of the pavements, which coupled with odd tables, chairs and flowerpots meant one had to walk in the road half the time. The police all have referee type whistles which are blown loudly and aggressively at any person or car which needs sorting out. Like naughty children!

With everyone off shopping for provisions and more, Astrid & I returned to the boat to sort out the water tanks and charge her work(!!!) computer, whilst being nagged by the harbour police to please move on soonest, as we were not supposed to be in that spot. “Only another 10 minutes “ turned out to be about 1 ½ hours in the end.

Finally, landed with all kinds of goodies, we headed north up the coast to the smal coastal village of Steni Vala, by which time we were all desperate for a swim.
It was a tiny harbour with no space for us, so Astrid & Charlie went ashore to find the Monk Seal Rehabilitation Centre which had been on our must-see radar.  Turned out this no longer existed although the girls did not waste the opportunity to check all the shops instead. 

The afternoon was getting late and we needed to find a comfortable night spot. Although there was little wind I prefer not to be woken with problems in the early hours. So we crossed to the island of Peristera and tucked ourselves into a quiet southern corner of Vasiliko Bay next to an abandoned boat shed. Lots of abandoned wood and metal too but the water was in fact the cleanest we have seen so far. Crystal clear and another invitation to snorkel. The underwater scenery here is largely similar and not especially colourful, like most of the Med, but always smaller fish and shells abound. Now we are really getting away from it all, for the northern Sporades islands are sparsely populated, if at all, and this was no exception. We have also finally lost all phone communications (which will remain so for some days).

Supper was high class tonight with fresh fish and tasty sauces. Better than a restaurant!

As night fell the girls spotted a dolphin or seal near our bows which was special. We all made ourselves comfortable on the foredeck to watch for shooting stars. The water was like glass, and I seem to have nodded off every time the cry went up of a burning meteorite. The atmosphere was incredible.