Next stop was the only other village on the island, Nikea. Although already high up, we had a long climb to this pristine village at the highest point of the island. For a small island it reaches 800 metres quickly. Views forever in every direction.

What a happy end to the day. Sundowners on top of the world. Now the long drive down with many, many bends. But we made it back tired and exhilarated.

The last big volcanic activity at Nisyros occurred over 20,000 years ago, but the interior caldera has an active hydrothermal system with continuous rise of hot water and gas from fumaroles. The last violent eruptions occurred in 1873 and 1888.

That said, it’s a fascinating but smelly place – you can smell the sulphur fumes from far off. For that reason we arrived around 5pm when it was slightly cooler and we virtually had the place to ourselves. Unlike UK obsession with safety, this place was the complete opposite. We were told to avoid soft ground and not to touch anything around the fumaroles; the last accident was yesterday. Pretty obvious to some, since the gas comes out with superheated steam. Sometimes there are mud pools at 100 degreesC although not today. Great experience to see it, but not the place to hang around.

Difficult to capture in a picture, the vids below show some of the fumaroles with gas emissions, audibly quite strong.

https://haupt.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_0709.movhttps://haupt.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_0707.mov

By now we were used to our quads and scooters, with Astrid even suggesting that this would be useful back home! I don’t think so! Now the long climb up, first to a semi derelict village overlooking the volcanic crater. Been here a month ago on a ‘boys’ trip. Family loved it, the crumbling yet still reparable old houses interspersed with some possibly occupied. Cold drinks on a terrace with a view to die for.

The 3 hour crossing from Tilos was no problem after all, no wind to speak of actually. So we arrived in The little port of Palon, made a super smooth docking with anchor and stern-to (pro team now). Wasted no time in organising quad bikes and scooters from Stavros at the end of the breakwater and headed out for a full explore of the island.

First stop to refuel, then on to Mandraki – the main town on the island with a busy port. Flooded with tourists for a short while when the tripper ferries arrive. Lunched at a pizza restaurant at the waters edge. Very nice and friendly like most of the Greeks we have encountered.

Decided the town was too touristy for us so moved on. On the hill above Mandraki was an ancient stone fortress, not unlike the one we saw at Bozu Buku. Not a soul in sight and slightly overgrown, it had been partially renovated about 10 years earlier. The heat was intense and we all desperately need a swim so moved on and found a tiny fishing harbour with huge disused buildings, but sandy and perfect for us.

From 2 days ago, pictures from Astrid’s ramblings around Halki

It wasn’t the wind so much last night, but the extremely strong gusts. Perhaps we are getting used to this for most of us slept through the clacking of the halyards and the howling gusts. Astrid not looking forward to the bumpy crossing to Nisiros, but we need to get into a secure port before the strong blow tonight. Nevertheless, when I stuck my head out, all looked rosy …..

Heavy wind was forecast so an early start planned, but not before our swim! The other reason was that all the toilet holding tanks were full (overflowing in fact – a big no-no in port!). Breakfast on the run, which was fine until we rounded the corner of Halki island and met the swells full-on. For a while we sailed but the wind was gusting between F3 and F6 which was not comfortable so we opted for the motor and ploughed our way to Tilos island before the gale force winds hit us. Arrived in Eristou Bay after a few hours hoping to find shelter. No chance. Luckily it was a pristine bay with a sandy bottom which held our anchor well. Plenty of swimming between the shore and the boat which was no mean feat, especially for Jared & Jana.

After lunch some of us went ashore to relax on the beach, helping ourselves to beach chairs provided and relocating them to the shade of the trees which were alive with the screeching of Cicada beetles. A short while later we were told off by a local(?) for moving the chairs; thanks for the friendly welcome. The others joined us on the beach later, but not before Charlie lost her cool with the outboard engine. Four of us headed inland to explore the road and properties; not great – we passed 3 abandoned vehicles and 1 abandoned development on the first half kilometre. Even the infamous restaurant where we had disgraced ourselves a few years back had closed (“boys” trip, another story)

Back on board the wind howled and swung the boat all over. In the cockpit however, sundowners were served

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Plans for a leisurely hike back via the windmills were scuppered when we got a message from Charlie, who left earlier, that the anchor had moved and the boat was against the pontoon. There had been some very strong gusts, so that probably did it, if not one of the ferry boats making waves. Arrived back to find no damage fortunately, but needed to tighten everything and supplement with springs (lines laid to prevent forward/backward movement). A few other arrivals also struggled to position their anchors correctly, which provided more entertainment.

Sundowners as usual, then Charlie and Astrid did what they do best….. scouring all the shops and arriving back with spoils. Anton & Mareth made excellent wraps for dinner.

Strong winds built up again overnight so I made the decision to stay here another day. Moving on to Tilos would entail 3-4 hours of bumpy sailing into the wind and swell, not my first choice, besides everyone like this place. So the day started with a visit to the bakery and breakfast was predominately warm fresh croissants and bread with thick yoghurt and honey. My decision to stay was confirmed when the crew on the neighbouring boat all left wearing harnesses, however not before trying to disentangle their anchor just as the massive ferry arrived.

Better still, here is the video:

Across the hill in the next bay is the only sandy beach on the island, so that is where we walked. Crystal clear water, umbrellas and loungers. A complete chill-out day. Jared & Jana busy at the waters edge most of the time, except when watching video games over Olly’s shoulder (really?…..)

It’s a beautiful port and liked by all of us. Once the tour ferries depart at 16h00 then the town settles to quiet and locals. Many of the buildings have been renovated but many remain derelict. We concluded that this town lives only off tourism, many properties being owned by outsiders and few young families about. That said, everyone seems happy and friendly.

A leisurely time with everyone doing their own thing. Great meal cooked by Charlie and Aiden. After dinner the two of them “hit the town” looking very smart – long dress and all. Should be a shock to the locals. The breeze continued which made sleeping bearable until midnight when a massive ferry pulled into harbour , towering over us with huge throbbing engines. Half hour later peace returned.