It’s a beautiful port and liked by all of us. Once the tour ferries depart at 16h00 then the town settles to quiet and locals. Many of the buildings have been renovated but many remain derelict. We concluded that this town lives only off tourism, many properties being owned by outsiders and few young families about. That said, everyone seems happy and friendly.

A leisurely time with everyone doing their own thing. Great meal cooked by Charlie and Aiden. After dinner the two of them “hit the town” looking very smart – long dress and all. Should be a shock to the locals. The breeze continued which made sleeping bearable until midnight when a massive ferry pulled into harbour , towering over us with huge throbbing engines. Half hour later peace returned.

Only a 5 mile windy crossing to the pretty port of Halki. Moored alongside a pontoon which I suspect is removed in winter, so is not the most robust. Only a couple of other yachts. The town is described as like a little Symi. Well yes, but much nicer with few people about and really pretty. Everyone disappeared in different directions to explore and get lunch. Astrid & I filled the boat tanks with water (at last!) with help from the friendly port man. He looked well fed and happy, subsequently explaining that his mom owned the restaurant down the road which served home made pasta. We went there for lunch which was great and super friendly. Restaurant Mama was also very well fed – a good sign.

The night was much better than expected, even though the breeze continued we were surprisingly sheltered from the swell and slept well. After swims, breakfast and sorting out the outboard we all migrated ashore to a little beach near the deserted church and barracks. All the snorkelling kit was out – Jared added to his collection with more delicate hollow shells, apparently a type of sea urchin with a pattern similar to the pansy shell.

Exploring the derelict buildings raised many questions about how life was here more than 75 years ago, what they did for water, how did the Italians co-existed with the Greek locals etc? Anyway, it could not have been all great since everyone left after the war.

Despite having no windows and the doors falling off, someone must occasionally tidy up the inside. Could still find candles and a lighter.