Next stop was the only other village on the island, Nikea. Although already high up, we had a long climb to this pristine village at the highest point of the island. For a small island it reaches 800 metres quickly. Views forever in every direction.
What a happy end to the day. Sundowners on top of the world. Now the long drive down with many, many bends. But we made it back tired and exhilarated.
The last big volcanic activity at Nisyros occurred over 20,000 years ago, but the interior caldera has an active hydrothermal system with continuous rise of hot water and gas from fumaroles. The last violent eruptions occurred in 1873 and 1888.
That said, it’s a fascinating but smelly place – you can smell the sulphur fumes from far off. For that reason we arrived around 5pm when it was slightly cooler and we virtually had the place to ourselves. Unlike UK obsession with safety, this place was the complete opposite. We were told to avoid soft ground and not to touch anything around the fumaroles; the last accident was yesterday. Pretty obvious to some, since the gas comes out with superheated steam. Sometimes there are mud pools at 100 degreesC although not today. Great experience to see it, but not the place to hang around.
Difficult to capture in a picture, the vids below show some of the fumaroles with gas emissions, audibly quite strong.
https://haupt.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_0709.movhttps://haupt.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_0707.mov
By now we were used to our quads and scooters, with Astrid even suggesting that this would be useful back home! I don’t think so! Now the long climb up, first to a semi derelict village overlooking the volcanic crater. Been here a month ago on a ‘boys’ trip. Family loved it, the crumbling yet still reparable old houses interspersed with some possibly occupied. Cold drinks on a terrace with a view to die for.
The 3 hour crossing from Tilos was no problem after all, no wind to speak of actually. So we arrived in The little port of Palon, made a super smooth docking with anchor and stern-to (pro team now). Wasted no time in organising quad bikes and scooters from Stavros at the end of the breakwater and headed out for a full explore of the island. 
First stop to refuel, then on to Mandraki – the main town on the island with a busy port. Flooded with tourists for a short while when the tripper ferries arrive. Lunched at a pizza restaurant at the waters edge. Very nice and friendly like most of the Greeks we have encountered.
Decided the town was too touristy for us so moved on. On the hill above Mandraki was an ancient stone fortress, not unlike the one we saw at Bozu Buku. Not a soul in sight and slightly overgrown, it had been partially renovated about 10 years earlier. The heat was intense and we all desperately need a swim so moved on and found a tiny fishing harbour with huge disused buildings, but sandy and perfect for us.
