Exactly at 8:00 am we departed with the prospect of an 8 hour crossing ahead. The wind was weak and we alternated between sailing and the motor. Most slept on and left Edsel & I to handle the boat. We planned a “breakfast” stop at Skantzoura which was visible on the horizon and which lay less than halfway to our destination of Skyros Island. It is a barren god-forsaken place whose probable only redeeming feature is some kind of protection from the Meltemi gales on occasion. Did not hang around too long for it was still around 30 miles to Skiros, which was another barely visible smudge on the horizon. Everyone found their own way to pass the time, and pass it eventually did. The final approach to Skiros was between some islets which was narrow and shallow. The pilotage book assured me that it was possible to go that way, but we kept a good lookout just in case. On arrival at Skiros a very friendly harbourmaster explained the facilities, which were remarkably organised for a small port. Even had a rack of books for loan/exchange and shopping trolleys on the quayside. This was also the first time so far that we could use lazy-lines instead of our anchor, which made life easy.

After dumping a ton of rubbish and sorting ourselves out with showers etc we took taxis to Molos, a pretty beach side village some 10 kms away for our first dinner out in ages. Molos is dominated by the capital town of Hora on the hillside above, which in turn was dominated by a huge lump of rock with the remnants of a castle on top. The entire town consists of typically square white buildings, which did not have as much blue contrasting paintwork as seen elsewhere. It was a must-see of course so after dinner we ambled up the steep stony walkway to explore. Very festive place with live music and many busy bars and restaurants, despite the narrow streets and walkways. It appeared that, as Greece had just received another 13 billion bailout from Europe, there was something to celebrate! The streets in the old town were narrow and cobbled, flanked with interlinked small houses. Many folk sat on their small street side patios and watched the world go by. While our women shopped, the teenagers explored the heaving end of town which was dominated by numerous clubs spreading all over the streets and attempting to outdo each other with their music. Mainly Greek tourists with not many other Europeans in evidence. We men settled at a music bar on the winding main walkway, fascinated by the passing parade until shortly before midnight when we all gathered together to celebrate Dani’s birthday. Then came the surprise……… Christiaan had organised a comfy corner on the rooftop terrace complete with sofas and wine at the ready. We expected a short speech to follow but what bowled us over was when he dropped onto one knee and formally proposed to Dani (they have been together for 20 years). Much elation and not a dry eye in sight. Their daughter Ariana was over the moon. All this under the atmospheric setting of the illuminated hilltop and castle above us.

Finally we left the hectic early morning scene where no one sleeps it seems and took taxis back to Linaria. Everyone was awake there too, despite the early hour so we took up our late night positions in the cockpit and managed yet another round of Uzo. At this point we all collapsed into bed. A noisy place to spend the night but after the tranquility of recent days we could handle anything.