Seems that Anton and my enthusiasm for good wind and a 30 degree heel was not shared by all on board. Especially Astrid. Notwithstanding we made the best of the wind which got stronger as we approached our destination – the deserted island of Alimera.

With reasonable shelter from the wind and swell, we dropped anchor in a deserted bay. Two old churches and the remains of Italian barracks erected during 2nd World War. After the war everyone moved off and the buildings slowly deteriorated.

Following the discovery that water on board was now scarce, we left via the shallow gap between the islands of Symi and Nimos. It was once again hot so within an hour we dropped anchor in the sheltered bay of Emilianos for a swim and lunch before tackling the bumpy 18 mile crossing that awaited us.

Returned from the beach to find that our boat anchor had slipped somewhat. No problem, just lift up and re-lay the anchor. Problem was that the harbour is very narrow with boats either side and anchor chains laid from side to side in many cases. So as luck would have it, we snagged someone else’s chain and proceed to entertain the entire bay with our disentanglement antics. It was compounded by Aiden landing up on the wrong side of the bay, Astrid on the other with groceries on the quayside, and Anton and I providing entertainment for the masses. Problem finally sorted, the day tripper boats having left, sundowners seemed a good idea….

It did not take long for Charlie & Aiden to assess the town’s offerings, so at their suggestion we agreed to have dinner high above the town. First we all took advantage of a potential water tank refill, so everyone showered on board and spruced up. The walk up numerous flights of stairs to the restaurant passed between quaint houses and enticing ruins, just waiting for renovation. Excited Anton no end. Since there were no streets at these levels it raised the question – how do things get delivered?

The restaurant catered mainly for locals, with good local cuisine. A gentleman (local expat) at the adjoining table offered to lead us on a little known hike when we return in a weeks time for the check-out formalities. May happen since I am not keen to stay in Symi harbour again because it is so busy and it will be preferable to anchor in the next bay and hike to the town.

Discovered after breakfast that we could not get water until after 5pm. That changed everything since we were running low and showers were therefore banned. Seemed this water rationing was old hat to the Cape Town delegation!

”Twas a very leisurely start, heralded by the smell of coffee brewing. Charle & Aiden’s morning fix. The rickety wooden jetty was very sociable and you could not walk five steps before engaging in a conversation about Cape Town, destinations, the wind, the Turks vs the Greeks etc etc. Breakfast highlight was warm flatbread fresh from the oven – went down a treat.

After the obligatory swims, we slipped off for a 12 mile hop to Symi harbour. School of dolphins passed by (or was that yesterday?). No wind and water like glass.

The approach to Symi is one of its best features. Originally a thriving sponge and shipbuilding centre, the local population has dwindled considerably – except in summer when it is literally overrun during the day. Trip boats bring in loads of frazzled tourists who mill around in groups and invade the waterside restaurants and shops. Being a very sheltered port, the heat is intense.

We contacted the local “agent” to handle our Greek immigration documentation, which entailed us all trooping down to the immigration office to have passports and IDs checked. Fortunately this was on the way to a beach, beyond the reach of the tourist masses and finally we were able to chill out at the waters edge on a private beach – price negotiated down from 25 to 15 euros for the family. Very relaxing afternoon – white wine spritzer served at your chair 😎 Does not get much better than that!

Been here before, will be here again. Were met at the jetty by Barbarossa who was surprised I remembered his name. A rough diamond with a chequered past, he just added to the uniqueness of the place. Very hot, so all in the water [except Ollie who got ribbed mercilessly]. Chilled afternoon with everyone doing there own thing. Mareth found a neighbouring boat was from Cape Town, another Roos family, and that they were related. A huge catamaran arrived with more Capetonians – flying a very large South Friday flag proves very sociable.

Sunset walk up to the ancient fort above. Erected 400BC it was stone masonry at its best. The pics say it all ‘

Best way to start the day – dive off the back of the boat. Perfect morning. Breakfast was very Turkish with labels we did not understand, homemade jam and honey. Just no Turkish coffee. Realised that we had not purchased enough drinking water, let alone beer, and there was no bread. So after retrieving our very long anchor chain and equally long shore line we went a short way up the coast to a small beach village called Ciflik where the shoppers rowed ashore for provisions (not bad for only 1 day away!).

Initially on engine, we soon picked up some wind and the sailing team got dragged into shape.

After motoring to Gerbeckse Cove near Ciflik we dropped anchor at sunset. Astrid being the best swimmer, swam ashore with a long line to prevent us swinging during the night. A quiet little cove with only a few other yachts. Swimming was followed by a great supper and good Turkish wine.

Despite the lack of sleep, there seemed to be no urgency to get any! First night on board is always a bit difficult; can’t find things, too hot, no wind, creaking halyards and an incessant cross swell that either put you to sleep or kept you awake.

There is a turtle sanctuary near Dalyan, started many years back by June Haimoff (MBE). During her sailing days she discovered Iztuzu beach and along with other environmentalists launched a successful campaign to save the beach from development. Kaplan June as she became known, founded the sanctuary which is still there today and is where our turtle team visited. It’s a fascinating story, see https://newint.org/features/web-exclusive/2015/12/22/june-haimoff-environmentalist

Th pics from this morning, excluding the Turtle team who have yet to report back fully, are below. Meanwhile it was a steamy afternoon collecting the boat, checking and stocking up on food. It seems that the latter was not a pleasant experience given that the ladies were hot tired and grumpy ! Finally left at 16h45 and had to sail around to the Customs quay for a enlightening experience in bureaucracy. r